For those who have lived in Montreal, or are familiar with the Deli culture of that city, the names Ben’s, Schwartz’s, Dunn’s will be familiar. Known for their smoked meat and corned beef, not for the decor. However, that does not mean they lack ambiance; quite the contrary. There is some combination of furnishings–sometime “retro” as in Ben’s case–attitude, waiters with character, cashiers, outspoken fellows behind the counter, camaraderie, quiet busboy… that creates an unpretentious, comforting environment. The experience is just as much a part of the meal as the food itself.
Recently we found a Deli just a few blocks from where we live, Centre Street Deli (“A” on the map). It conjures up many of the same impressions. It lacks a little on the ambiance side, but the medium Old fashioned on double rye is great. We go there quite regularly. Go early (before 11:30) or later (after 1:30) or be prepared to stand in line.
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